Cyanotype is a direct printing method; so, instead of using an enlarger, we print the digital negative in the same size as the final print. I remember making contact prints from my 35mm or medium-format camera negatives back in the day. Those who use a large format camera, such as 4x5 or 8x10, often use the direct print method.
I am still actively learning and exploring improved methods of producing cyanotype prints. Firstly, we start with negatives. This involves flipping the image to a mirror image, turning it into a negative by inversing the image, and then manipulating the tone curve as appropriate. The last step is difficult as it involves trial and error.
Once we have the negatives, we set it to a carrier and expose it with a light source. Cyanotype is sometimes called SUN print as traditionally, the sun was used to expose the photo. I have tried this myself too. However, I mostly use a specialized UV light source today, as it is easier to control the exposure time precisely. I have been tweaking my exposure box, which is currently made from a cardboard box. One day, I will make a proper wooden box, but I am still revising the design, so it is not quite final yet.
Then, I set the timer for about 20 minutes for classic cyanotype and wash the paper to remove any chemicals from the unexposed areas. Unlike silver print, we do not need any fixer, as Prussian Blue is very stable by itself. Lately, I have been testing a new cyanotype formula that is supposed to speed up the exposure time quite a bit; this is something I am looking forward to testing.
Although it was not absolutely necessary at this point, I am thinking about trying some burning and dodging in the printing steps soon.
The model is Elle. This photoshoot was sometimes around 2015.
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It makes me smile, when I see it.